At the Palazzo Ajutamicristo, an unassuming, dusty wooden door leads into a couple of mini-courtyards full of banana trees. Dating from 1485, the arched terraces are like something you might see in Jaipur. Expect to encounter the owner, a baron, reading in the garden. He doesn't seem to mind strangers wandering in off the street and there's no charge for entry. 23 Via Giuseppe Garibaldi (phn: +39 091 616 1894).
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